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#1
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Hi everyone I am new to this site and I need your help.
I have a 2004 TB with 2800 mile on it and last weekend the wife and myself went for a drive only to find out that the A/C was only blowing hot or warm air no COLD air at all. I talked with my bother and thinks that I may be low on freon?, so I wanted to recharge the system but I could not find the low side intake connection, can anyone instruct me to its location!. I was going to take the car in to the Ford dealer but my wife said that the car was no longer under warranty can anyone answer that question for me also. Thank you for your time. Bill Schopp luvburd |
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#2
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Easy there Bill:
Don't jump and spend money on something that may not be correct. I just checked on another owner that had the same problem: He said, "The coolant control valve is located on the passenger side of the radiator shroud. You will find three hoses connected to it, two of those hoses running to the heater core, the other routes to the upper radiator hose. This coolant control valve has two electronic actuators that divert the coolant in the appropriate manner. When they malfunction you will get only HOT air blowing from your vents regardless of which temp you set, whether A/C is on, or where you direct the air to come from. The part can be ordered from Direct Ford Parts for $102." - Installed it himself. Not sure if this is your problem, sounds like it. But, always refer to thensearch function.....There's a wealth of info there for you. |
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#3
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We are having a simiar issue but in this case with AC on Blowing Hot Air driver vents annd Cold Air Passenger Vents
At the same time We had the PO354 Coil D and or primary /secondary malfuction Error (misfiring , stuttering, backfire) .. I replaced Coil D (cylinder 4) and plug .. ran great for a few hours then get the error again ..any possible connection between th e2 issues ? |
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#4
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e85 prices:
Although there were three owners that had the problem and had their CCV's replaced, it does not neccessarily mean that that is your problem. But please post your resolution for others when you find it. There are so few of these cars, we may all need this info and what others have done for corrective action, at some time. ![]() |
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#5
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Quote:
OK the only thing I didnt do was wiper bracket seal and valve cover gasket per.. Water or oil may enter into the ignition coil cover and the spark plug bore causing a misfire. The MIL will illuminate when the misfire condition occurs. A coil with improved water/oil sealing was put into production in March 2004. Owners who experience this condition are expected to obtain service through their dealerships. There is an adverse effect on both emissions and drivability when misfire condition is present. Remedy: Two voluntary service campaigns were released for 2003 MY only for miss-fire conditions. VSC 07M07 replaces ignition coils as needed and valve cover gaskets if oil has leaked into the spark plug bore. VSC 07N09 replaces the wiper motor bracket seal. This replacement will be performed if water is present in the spark plug bore. Extended warranty coverage to 10 years or 100,000 miles whichever comes first. For vehicles over 100,000 miles coverage good until 12/31/2007 http://epa.gov/otaq/cert/recall/2007recallreport2.pdf |
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#6
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The data in that last post, on the pdf file, is the same info we talked about last July in the following thread: http://forums.thunderbirdforum.com/s...d+warranty.htm
My posts 6 & 7, on that thread, are copies of the Ford letters, since at that time I was not able to attach them. The 07M07 referenced in your post of that attachment, is the program that Ford had, to extend the 2003 warranties to 100,000 miles, for COPS |
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#7
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Well I ran it into the dealer today, started stumbling again MIL and Bad Coil D readout ..It probably has more than 1 bad coil and the only way I can test is replace a coil drive it ..let it cool for a few hours , replace a different could drive cool etc..
Far easier to have them check it out on their dime I am wondering .If one coil goes bad does that affect voltage in the other coils ? causing them to go bad? Also seems someone had mentioned the coils gettinmg to hot under the Coil Covers and that was causing the issue....been running ideas around about adding maybe 1-2 inch spacers over the threaded area for the 8 bolts on the cover to raise the cover up an inch ..and have anew "wrap around" fashioned (sheet metal)and painted.. maybe heat vents on the sides Anyone who has taken the covers off should see what I am saying Last edited by e85prices : 06-12-2008 at 11:10 AM. |
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#8
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The reason I am thinking that heta may be the culprit is after I changed the coil the first time ..I left the coil off and drove/tested for about an hour and everything was fine .. ran great
Put the cover back on and the issues started back up.. So yeah possibly heat .. Also .. wondering about arcing.. any chance the cover is pinching or in some other fashion causing arcing by touching any of the supply wires to the coil? Just running ideas by .. |
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